Martin Scorsese's Journey Through American Movies (1995)
I knew very little about the golden age of Hollywood before watching these three documentaries. However now I feel like a do have an understanding of it. I learnt that each film company has there own recognisable style, for example: MGM do idealised films, where as Fox do more realistic ones. Directors also stuck to the same path of creating films, so became famous for a certain genre. In the beginning that there were three main types of film being produced: the gangster, the western, and the musical. How the camera was used was really important in trying to persuade the public that film (which was just starting out) was just as much of an art form as the theatre. Thy used techniques such as close ups, dolly shots, tracking shots, and masking some areas of the screen. This as very important for silent films
The Musical- The musical film first became popular after the great depression as it provide the escapism and fun that everyone needed. What I found really interesting about the musical was that the cameras would also take part in the choreography, allowing the audience to feel like they were part of the dance, and to create an interesting display.
The Western- With the western films they tended to have the same protagonist, director, and location, however over time they became more sadistic and violent. They hence reflected the changing morals and attitudes of the American society. When the cinema became popular, large landscape shots were often used to fill the screen, and provide something that the TV couldn't in order to compete against it.
The Gangster- Before WWII the gangster film was based around working class gangsters, however after it, the gangster changed to being a upper class business man.
Pierpaolo Pasolini, 1969
I personally didn't enjoy this movie, as I found that the acting didn't convey the story well at all, and that there was no variation in the film to keep you hooked and interested. However I was impressed by the vast landscape shots, and the fact that through out the film they had a lot of near silence, which allowed you to get lost in the landscape and feel like you were really there.
The image quality was very poor, as it was such an old film, which made me go onto wonder whether the costumes of old films were ever detailed, as you can't actually pick up the detail in the film. Although you couldn't see the costumes clearly I was still impressed on how you could easily distinguish the class of the characters, due to the use of colour.
The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari - 1920
I found the design features within this film very interesting, as it made me realise that films can draw on art movements as influences, they don't have to be just based on realism.
Weine creates a surrealist world to set his film in, as he plays with the shapes and sizes of the places and objects he uses. Surrealism was the popular art movement post WW1 as people tried to escape from the present and the past. There is a reflection of art deco also in this work as he uses a lot of geometric shames in his back drops.
I also noticed that strong shapes are key in costume for old silent films, as there is no colour and the camera quality is poor. For example: there was a lot large cloaks and top hats. Another costume that particularly caught my eye was Janes night dress as it was light, white, floaty dress, making her look ethereal and innocent. This made her stood out from the other darkly dress characters, and conveyed her personality and circumstance without the need for colour or words.
Overall, this film taught me to take notice of the finer details in characters and costumes, and helped me realise things I wouldn't, if there had been sound and colour to distract me. Going from this I think it would be interesting to research other films that have been inspired by art movements.
Metropolis- 1927
This is a German science-fiction film depicting a highly stylised, futuristic, utopian city, where an upper class man discovers the horrors of the working conditions for the people who are hidden under in the bowells of the city. This critique on society sees the man help rebel against this injustice
As it is in black and white, the emphasis is put on the shape and style of the costumes, with bold patterns and extravagant shapes. The use of uniforms throughout the film helps give a feel of oppression and hopelessness to the film. The makeup is also dramatic, with heavily pencilled eyes, eyebrows and lips, allowing actors expressions to be clearly seen.
Zero de Conduite (1933)
This film is directed by Jean Vigo who's most famous piece is L'Atalante (1934). The film looks at the controversial French education system by following the story of a group of boys who are finished with being oppressed by their teachers. Not only is this film a critique on the French educational system, but also on the unfair hierarchy of the whole world. It is said to be based on Vigo's own reflection of his loathed school days in 1919.
The costumes in this film are traditional to the time period that the film was set in with waistcoats and suits being a staple for men, and women still not breaking out of the convention of covering up skin, but opting still for longer skirts and blouses. The overall look is very formal with actors often wearing hats and simple but smart outfits. Glamour is something that is left out of the costumes for the film, helping them to emphasise the disadvantage the children are at.
The Scarlett Empress (1934)
Produces in 1934 The Scarlet Empress is directed by Josef von Sternberg's, and is a take on the story of the famous historical figure of Catherine the Great.
The costumes in this film help to enhance the opulent feel of the production. They are mostly historically accurate to the time period. The nobles in Russian during this time were known for their extravagance, with gold and silver lace used to trim cuffs and necklines, and many precious stones decorating the bodices. The sheer amount of fabric used to create billowing skirts also helps emphasise this, some of the skirts also are given absurd structure with cages keeping their protruding form. I noticed throughout the film a reoccurring theme of veils, which give the feeling of secrecy and lies. Furthermore, the large amount of extras used in many scenes allow the costumes to create a spectacle, and make the audience feel the vibrancy and the bustle of activity that is shown within the film.
La Belle et La Bette- 1946
This film was directed by French director Jean Cocteau in 1945/46, and was one of the first films released in France after the Nazis left. This film fits in with other productions released at this time as, it's magical, fictional story, acts as a method of escapism for audiences wanting to forget the horrors of the past years.
I noticed that throughout the film Cocteau makes the castle seem magical is through the use of wind. There is often a breeze blowing out of nowhere, which blows the costumes of the characters, which especially makes Belle in her flowing white night dress look ethereal and fairy like, as she steps into the light. It is a very small directing idea, however it has a huge impact. In the 'Beasts world all the sets have a crumbling grandeur to them, hinting at the luxury that would have been. Also shapes of the furniture and fittings seem quite formidable, especially alongside all the shadows that Cocteau includes. This may make the audience feel slightly unnerved at the sinister atmosphere that has been created. Also to add to this atmosphere Cocteau also uses real people as part of his sets, this allows the furniture to come alive without the help of CGI, it also creates the sense of always being watch, as eyes look out from dark corners and unexpected places.
There is also definite change in the style of costume between the 'real' world and the 'beasts' world. In the beasts world the costumes are a lot more extravagant, with huge swathes of fabric making up billowing dresses and capes. In addition the amount of jewels used on these costumes increases, making them feel stately and impressive to the audience. I liked how the Beasts costume had large shoulder pads in his cape that sharply squared up his figure making him more imposing and menacing.
Cocteau’s also uses darkness and shadows a lot to focus the viewers eye on a particular object in the Beasts world. This also allows the audiences imagination to start to wonder what is within the shadows, going back again to the unnerving atmosphere that runs through the film.
A Matter of Life & Death (1946)
This film was directed by Emeric Pressburger & Michael Powell and released in 1946. Knowing when this film was released is important when understanding the decisions made when creating the film. As WW2 had just ended this film highlights the good relationship between America and Britain by bringing a man and a woman romantically together from each nation. Furthermore, during the trial scene, a number of Americans convey the message of goodwill towards Britain. The narrative of this film is also reflects the time it was made in, as it combines comedy, tragedy, and humour together in order to soften the idea of death, and what comes after, and also to provide some escapism to the population.
This film also has an interesting use of colour palette, as it moves from technicolour of the real world to black and white in the after life. To me this conveys the idea of all colour being sucked out after death, just like life is. It also helps cement the idea of this after life being a completely different world.
The Third Man (1949)
Directed by Carol Reed, this is a classic example of film noir with its intricate plots, underlying philosophy and, stark lighting which helps to create intense silhouettes of people against vast landscapes. This crisp visual landscape is combined with a jaunty (but without feeling) film score which creates a sinister atmosphere which is emphasised by the backdrop of the crumbling city of Vienna. Tilt shots are also used throughout the film, this is evident when Holly first enters Vienna and helps emphasise his confusion at being in a new place.
Hats are often used to create shadows over the actors faces to add mystique and secrecy to the film. Suits are also worn by the men as this is the standard dress code for the time period. They also help the film have a smart, sleek finish, and emphasises the importance and the seriousness of the mystery.
The Naked Civil Servant (1975)
This one of the first films that presents homosexuality in a positive light and also explains the horrors that homosexual people have to deal with due to societies inability to accept that everyone is different. It follows the real life story of Quentin Crisp who makes the brave decision of not hiding his sexuality, which was frowned deeply upon in England in the 1930s and 40s.
The costumes and makeup in this film allow for Quentin Crisp and his friends to stand out from the rest of society. Although not massively extravagant or colourful the costumiers careful add pops of colour and traditionally women's clothes to make his character come to the forefront of the film. The subtlety also makes you remember that Quentin isn't trying to show off and be exuberant, but just himself.
References Rialto Pictures/Studiocanal, 2022. The Third Man [digital image].IMBD. Available at: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0041959/mediaindex?ref_=tt_mv_close [Accessed 2nd February 2022].
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